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Haider Ackermann Spring Fashion Collection

Tilda Swinton rocked a red silk jacket and long slim skirt from Haider Ackermann’s last show at the Cannes Film Festival, and the paparazzi took notice. Backstage, the designer admitted that all the subsequent attention piled the pressure on, but it also put him in a cheerful mood. “It made me want colors, brightness,” he said, and that impulse led to a serenely beautiful Spring collection he called A Passage to India.

It wasn’t until about halfway through, after a pair of black looks opened the show and a passage of smoky gray followed, that the color came in. Gorgeous saffron yellow and midnight blue were worth the wait. As for the silhouettes, there was a whiff of colonial India in the hammered silk cargo pants and rolled shorts, as well as in the washed leather epauletted jackets and vests. These were worn long and cutaway around the hips, or knotted around the waist. Whereas Balmain’s fatigues were sexy, Ackermann’s take on the season’s developing military trend was soigné. But if his daywear was more approachable, the designer’s draped evening dresses were just as uncompromising as they’ve always been. Take, for instance, the last look: The asymmetric gown covered only one breast, forcing the model who wore it to walk the runway covering the other with her hand. And you’d have to have the body of a goddess, not to mention the confidence of one, to pull off a draped jersey floor-skimmer in dusty lilac, or one of the long, clinging skirts with an inverted-U cutout to the middle thigh. Somehow, though, we suspect that Swinton won’t be the only celebrity to wear them.


Alexander Wang Fall Fashion Collection

Earlier this week, an accessories editor at a major magazine told me she was forced to ask the staff’s stylists to stop using Alexander Wang’s lace-up sandal boot from Spring 2009 in their shoots. Consider that: a contemporary designer snagging a seasonal honor Most Favored Editorial Shoe usually taken by the likes of Balenciaga or Louis Vuitton.

Defined purely by price point, his is a contemporary brand. But it’s a label Wang politely chafes at, and over the past three seasons he’s become sui generis: a designer with the creative chops to increasingly earn a place in high fashion’s conversation, but whose clothes are accessible to more than just the one percent.

Situated at this powerful vantage point, Wang chose Wall Street’s Masters of the Universe as his starting point for Fall. He took the traditional banker’s suit a push into uncharted territory for this Master of the T-shirt and deconstructed it in a dark and sexy vein. It was “about growing up, about progress,” Wang said before the show. “It’s a lot more sophisticated, more polished.” Polished yes, but hardly proper. Wang knows his girl, and she’s not following the office dress code.

Cropped blazers, tailcoats, and vests exposed slivers of skin and were worn with thick ribbed thigh-high legwarmers, often yanked down over chunky heels. Matching backpack straps were crisscrossed in front to give a bondage vibe. Layering was part of the story, but Wang’s goal was to do it in a more precise, less street-chic manner, slicing away extraneous elements. A key part of that was his new trouser, a sort of glorified belled legging that his leggy front-row fans will no doubt jump all over.

Perhaps as a counterpoint to his gray flannel inspiration, Wang also made the case for velvet in all forms, including chenille. That seems a tough sell, even for him. Then again, there’s a good likelihood that the growing number of worldwide Wang ettes some of whom surely caught the show live-streamed on SHOWstudio or on the massive American Eagle LED billboard in Times Squarewill love every little bit.

Burberry Prorsum Fashion Collection

There’s only one problem with the jackets on the Burberry Prorsum runway for Fall: Which one to choose? It’s the biggest accolade to Christopher Bailey that (a) that was a real and urgent dilemma, as the outerwear was available to pre-order instantaneously on the Burberry Web site, and (b) it would actually be impossible to go wrong. Every single one of his giant-collared shearlings, military drab overcoats and parkas and every hybrid thereof, in all their variations of volume, shape, shagginess, and leather strap and buckle detail was utterly desirable. Bailey nailed it from the point of view of proportion oversize and cropped and practicality. He did it for women who like a frisson of showy seasonal fashion, and for those who want a coat that’s destined for a long life in the hall closet. By 5 p.m. GMT, thousands of mouse-pointers all over the world were hovering in distress over which “Click to buy” button to press.

Backstage, among the seething crowd of paparazzi, film crews, and well-wishers, Bailey gave his word on where all this originated. “I was thinking of uniforms and cadet girls but it all started when I looked at an aviator jacket in the archive. Then, as I started designing into it, I realized it could be as versatile as the trench strong and sexy, masculine and feminine.” And just before he was submerged in the next wave of kissing and congratulations, he turned and grinned: “And I really enjoyed it!”

Creatively, it certainly looked like he did. Burberry is on home ground here: not trying too hard, keeping at one authentically cool thing and exploding into a look that is simple to get, yet exists in a myriad of options, all of which take care to emphasize sex appeal. It’s a simple equation: jacket; skimpy, drapey, lacy skirt; and a pair of amazing boots either right up to the thigh or (again, the agony of choice!) shearling-lined and bristling with straps.

Was it more important, though, that there was a sensation with this show that the parameters of fashion its presentation, communication, and selling were finally being forced open as the world watched? It was globally live-streamed, viewed in 3-D by clusters of invited guests in New York, Tokyo, L.A., and Dubai: That much only seems semi novel in a culture that’s already assimilated the availability of show material in record time. What’s new, and super-clever in this case, is the simultaneous pre-selling of the clothes on the runway and for three days only. As a brilliant piece of fashion-business management, it was an Olympic style streak ahead that will leave other competitors seething.

Iceberg Spring collection

For Spring 2011, Iceberg designer clothes Paolo Gerani took the classic children’s tale The Little Prince as his inspiration, mining that book’s proto-environmentalism for a collection that touched on themes of decay and renewal. Gerani created a backdrop from an undulating wall of cardboard, like a giant abandoned filing system, that suggested the kind of repurposing you might see in the slums of Lagos or Rio. (The association was strengthened by the techno world music accompaniment of the Chemical Brothers’ “Galvanize” on the soundtrack.

The designer showed knitwear that looked old, burned, and holey; T-shirts decorated with duct tape; a shearling that could have been rescued from a bin; and distressed footwear. He also worked the recycling theme in sweatshirt material reconfigured as a tailored jacket/bomber hybrid and as a blazer with a baseball jacket’s sleeves. Pinstriped silk pants with an elasticated ankle felt like they’d been pajamas in a former life. Two pristine blousons in green leather, meanwhile, evoked growth and rebirth.

2010 Ready to Wear by Ralph Lauren

Over the course of his four-decade career, Ralph Lauren has made many looks his own—equestrian, country club, ski-lodge chic. Bohemian gypsy is a little more unexpected, but there were definite strains of that in today’s show, and not only because Stevie Nicks was singing Fleetwood Mac’s “Sisters of the Moon” on the soundtrack. Lauren got there via the Edwardian tailoring and romantic florals that his fans already know and love—not to mention a trove of beaded necklaces, beanies, and fingerless lace gloves.

Puffed shoulders made repeat appearances, here on a fitted charcoal herringbone jacket, there on a cotton flannel plaid blouse or jewel-tone velvet top; a black suede tunic with leg-of-mutton sleeves was sashed at the waist over flaring leggings. Mixing masculine and feminine with his usual deftness, Lauren slipped a chesterfield on top of a floor-grazing georgette dress, and cinched distressed leather belts around the washed Shetland wool jackets he paired with ruffled skirts.

There was a pinstripe interlude that looked tailor-made for his tony clientele, but not unlike his Spring collection, with its Great Depression-inspired beaten-up blue jeans, this one seemed pitched to a more downtown crowd. That was especially the case when it came to evening. A passementerie embroidered silk ottoman coat was plenty posh, ditto a black silk georgette and tulle beaded gown. His flower-print long dresses, however, were layered over lacy long-sleeve tees in a way we’ve seen young designers doing all week. If this felt like strange new territory for Lauren, there were moments—as with that silk georgette fils coupe gown—when it was fertile ground indeed.

Fashion for Marc Jacobs

Whoever does Marc Jacobs‘ research for him is a genius, with an ability to nail a mood that is pure gold. The new Marc by Marc Jacobs collection perfectly captured the moment when stylish boys and girls were picking up Iron Curtain army surplus after the Wall came down. The khaki melton coat with the red trim? The black fur hat? The big wool coat, patched and roughly belted as a dress? It was all spookily close to the source, which was kind of in keeping with the theme of Jacobs’ signature show on Monday night: There’s no place like home. In that case, “home” was a serene, almost dreamlike reminder of timelessness and enduring value. Here, it was a distillation of the thrift-shop spirit that has shaped the Marc by Marc collection from day one. Not just the surplus, but a strapless tartan prom dress (with petticoat) for the girls and washed-out black felt cargo pants with matching jacket for the boys.

It could seem a little listless, except that everything about Marc Jacobs is a package, so the soundtrack was a relentlessly upbeat modern surf sound (the Drums were featured). That shoved the energy levels skyward and underscored Marc by Marc’s fundamental charm and prettiness, both assets clearly highlighted by the fresh-faced, bed-headed, and largely unfamiliar cast of models.

The pie-crust frilling on blouses and pants might have been a little obvious, but a blanket-striped sweater dress over leggings was girlishly cute. And the military references were artfully tweaked: Freja Beja Erichsen in a little drummer boy jacket, Cole Mohr in a big black trench worn over long johns—all reasons to like this collection more and more each season.

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Fashion Hermes

HERMES International experienced an 8.6 per cent rise in sales in 2009, following strong Christmas trading in its fourth quarter of business.

According to WWD, healthy business across all regions – excluding Japan – contributed to this increase which saw sales in the fourth quarter rise to 587.3 million euros compared to 540.9 million euros in the same period the previous year. The luxury fashion label has plans to open 12 new stores in 2010, following the addition of 14 last year. Meanwhile, LVMH has reported a 13 per cent slide in its net profits, but a record level of revenues in December.

“This trend is continuing and growing in January for the group as a whole,” said LVMH chairman and chief executive officer Bernard Arnault, noting the future of the current business climate as being “difficult to predict”.LVMH cited the destocking of Champagne, watches and jewellery as factors for the knock in its fortune but noted strengths in emerging markets and Europe. The company said its objective for 2010 is “leadership of the global luxury goods industry”.

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Queen of Pop on Fashion

Although she is known to pick her endorsements carefully, Madonna is no stranger to advertising campaigns. After attending one of Madonna’s ‘Sticky & Sweet’ shows, designer Marc Jacobs, who is also behind the latest Louis Vuitton collection 2009. Here’s the new ads of the queen of Pop Madonna for the designer clothes Dolce & Gabbana.. Well let’s vote which ads will be the better for the Queen of Pop.

Louis Vuitton ads – 2009

Dolce & Gabbana for 2010

Two gorgeous ads from Madonna. But I’ll go for Louis Vuitton post. What about you..

Little Fashionista

Little Suri Cruise is often seen in designer clothes such as Ralph Lauren, Armani, Burberry, Christian Louboutin, Pucci and Dior. It’s no wonder she’s regarded as the style icon for toddler girls. With this lifestyle, maybe she could be a fashion model or a designer soon? No surprise since she has a superstar dad Tom Cruise and her mom Katie Holmes is a fahionista, too.

Her hair cut, her dresses, her shoes, her skin color and her hair color, her blue eyes, all are perfect combination! I just love to see this girl. Ask I wonder what will she be when she grow up and be one of the biggest Hollywood star.

RL Fall Collections

Ralph Lauren tapped into fashion’s current need for simplicity, referencing equestrian uniforms and making them relevant for modern urban life.

Lauren’s fine-gauge cashmere turtlenecks, lush cable sweaters, cavalry twill pants, textured crocodile belts and plaid jackets with leather elbow patches will work perfectly for a casual lunch date or a weekend getaway to Greenwich, Conn. Supple espresso leather shirtdresses, fitted chocolate suede pants and generously ruffled shirts also looked practical and smart, as did the short, easygoing georgette cocktail slips lavished with beaded paisleys.

For evening, Lauren segued into long, rich velvet skirts and floor-length strapless gowns, but the real show-stoppers were a series of tuxedos that could be worn with an ivory silk shirt, a short string of diamonds, or nothing at all. As Lauren stated in his show program: “It’s thoroughbred dressing at its newest and most chic.”

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