Archive for February, 2010

CK 2010


Today’s Calvin Klein Collection show began with a musical composition and light show by Alva Noto (a.k.a. Carsten Nicolai) specially conceived for the occasion. The room went dark and spotlights that looked vaguely like stacked vertebrae pulsated to the rhythm of the soundtrack. It was a fittingly conceptual beginning for Francisco Costa’s Fall lineup, which was pared down in the extreme.

The designer opened with a streamlined collarless coat in lustrous black cupro. Its molded, rounded shoulders and full sleeves turned up later in a double faced wool suit jacket worn with a wrap skirt, as well as in an ivory crepe and leather long sleeve T-shirt teamed with matching high-waisted, cropped pants. If the stiff, sculptural shapes of these pieces weren’t the most flattering, Costa’s two other areas of interest this season regimented tailoring and shift dresses paid more careful attention to the lines and curves of the female body.

A midnight blue trench in stretch technical wool had a commanding presence. (The fact that Stella Tennant wore it probably helped; along with Kirsty Hume and Kristen McMenamy, the nineties supe was there to represent the golden era of minimalism.) A hammered cashmere cape, two curving arches cut away from its hem, was equally dramatic. As for Costa’s sleeveless shifts, what made them compelling was their glossy, liquid-mercury fabrics or, alternately, their calla-lily-inspired draped shapes. Evening was represented by a trio of silver silk Lurex columns with subtle gridlike embroideries. They aren’t exactly red carpet friendly (sorry, front-row attendees Kerry Washington, Kate Bosworth, Isabel Lucas, and Naomi Watts). But in their spare simplicity like the best pieces in this collection they’re undeniably cool.

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Fashion for Marc Jacobs


Whoever does Marc Jacobs‘ research for him is a genius, with an ability to nail a mood that is pure gold. The new Marc by Marc Jacobs collection perfectly captured the moment when stylish boys and girls were picking up Iron Curtain army surplus after the Wall came down. The khaki melton coat with the red trim? The black fur hat? The big wool coat, patched and roughly belted as a dress? It was all spookily close to the source, which was kind of in keeping with the theme of Jacobs’ signature show on Monday night: There’s no place like home. In that case, “home” was a serene, almost dreamlike reminder of timelessness and enduring value. Here, it was a distillation of the thrift-shop spirit that has shaped the Marc by Marc collection from day one. Not just the surplus, but a strapless tartan prom dress (with petticoat) for the girls and washed-out black felt cargo pants with matching jacket for the boys.

It could seem a little listless, except that everything about Marc Jacobs is a package, so the soundtrack was a relentlessly upbeat modern surf sound (the Drums were featured). That shoved the energy levels skyward and underscored Marc by Marc’s fundamental charm and prettiness, both assets clearly highlighted by the fresh-faced, bed-headed, and largely unfamiliar cast of models.

The pie-crust frilling on blouses and pants might have been a little obvious, but a blanket-striped sweater dress over leggings was girlishly cute. And the military references were artfully tweaked: Freja Beja Erichsen in a little drummer boy jacket, Cole Mohr in a big black trench worn over long johns—all reasons to like this collection more and more each season.

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Fashion Hermes


HERMES International experienced an 8.6 per cent rise in sales in 2009, following strong Christmas trading in its fourth quarter of business.

According to WWD, healthy business across all regions – excluding Japan – contributed to this increase which saw sales in the fourth quarter rise to 587.3 million euros compared to 540.9 million euros in the same period the previous year. The luxury fashion label has plans to open 12 new stores in 2010, following the addition of 14 last year. Meanwhile, LVMH has reported a 13 per cent slide in its net profits, but a record level of revenues in December.

“This trend is continuing and growing in January for the group as a whole,” said LVMH chairman and chief executive officer Bernard Arnault, noting the future of the current business climate as being “difficult to predict”.LVMH cited the destocking of Champagne, watches and jewellery as factors for the knock in its fortune but noted strengths in emerging markets and Europe. The company said its objective for 2010 is “leadership of the global luxury goods industry”.

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